|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on August 17, 2013 at 11:30 AM||comments (0)|
I am always tickled by the people that call and ask for the price on a truck load of worm castings. Most of these people are well educated people, great gardeners and just looking to save money.........
Problem is, I then have to spend about an hour or more, explaining why they don't need a pickup truck full. Let me try to explain, please overlook the typo's and spelling as I am not a journalist.
For starters, most "real" worm farms in Ga. may produce a yard or even two per year, of castings. If they claim to have tons and tons of castings(worms crap), red flags and sirens should go off. Didn't they use any on their own yard and garden, why not.
I am not saying they are ling to you, just do the math....if you have 60 beds, with 10,000 worms in each one about 60,000 worms, and you harvest them every 30 days. You will get at most 30 buckets of castings...........that is a pretty good bit, maybe even a 1/3 of a yard, providing you don't use any or sell any then logically in 3 months you would have a yard. But that's only one sale of one yard, once it is gone you wouldn't have any left. There is only about 6 good harvest months out of the year in Ga. because of temp. and weather.
60 beds full of worms is a fair size, lets double it to 120,000 worms and I only know about 6 in Ga. that have that many or more. The math would say you could possibly in a perfect world, under perfect conditions, not selling any worms or castings for 6 months, you might get 4 yards of castings.
Keep in mind, with that many worms, and that much harvesting, feeding and watering, you would have to have at least 2 and likely 4 people or more helping with the up keep.
Don't get me wrong, there are a few worm farms that aculy have a yard or two for sale, but you wont find them on Craig's list for 100 per yard.
So, you are asking, how or what are the doing.......well there are lots of things, basically sifting compost. And or uneaten vermicompost.
I prefer to see the GLOW on a persons face, when they show me pictures of their, huge and bountiful crops.
and another thing.........................................the magic of worm castings.......................is....................
you only need a pound, one pound of castings will make 50 gallons of (fertilizer/tea) And that is alot of tea........................
Fertilizer is the wrong word, when you apply 10-10-10 or other fertilizers, you kill all the live organisms in your garden, raised bed or yard and give them a synthetic vitamin shot, when you eat the fruits or veggies, that is what you are eating, but what is worse.....the soil is dead and lets in all the bad micro organisms, organisms, bugs and other bad things.
When you use worm tea made from worm castings, you are doing just like 03-03-03 and can do it over and over with out burning, organic, so when you eat your bounty that is what it is. and the soil is ALIVE, with millions and millions of micro organisms killing anything bad. That is their food.....that's just the start......next year will be even better, and the next even better and so on. not at all like a fertilizer that you must apply over and over. Yes you can re apply tea over and over, but once your yard and garden comes back to life, it will maintain itself. this is the first year I have had so many tomato s, not one had brown spot, the list is endless.. I have only be totally free of all synthetics for 2 years.
back to the point, you dont need a ton of castings. that is the magic.......and there IS, a difference in castings, type, age, worms used, feed used for the worms and more......
This post is copyrighted, feel free to copy and paste as long as you include my name and webpage.
Tim Herron http://www.herronfarms.webs.com
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on December 16, 2012 at 9:20 AM||comments (0)|
This Friday December 21, 2012
Herron Farms of Dawsonville, will not be having an "End of the World Sale".
I am sure something is in the works, as the Myans were not dumb people, and have provided us with many importaint peice's of information. I personally believe the end of time may be close, mostly from my understanding of the book of Revelations and what we are doing to ourselves, with the Drugs and the hatred to one another. But what is Close? One Day, or many Years? Know one knows this.
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on September 14, 2012 at 6:55 PM||comments (0)|
45th Annual Mountain Moonshine Festivalsm
October 27 & 28, 2012
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on May 3, 2012 at 7:55 AM||comments (0)|
I can ship just about anything, except rabbits. The only way that I have found is very expensive and prohibitive, as in avg. 500-1500 and to me, that just makes no sense. The postal service will not ship rabbits.
I have had people drive from all over, tx. mi. fl.nc.sc.tn.al. and all over Ga. Makes me feel bad.
Now about these rabbits, they are not "registered rabbits" they are pure blood rabbits, and I have "pedigree's" for them. They come from a line of Grand champs and Registered rabbits.
The trail to get a rabbit is a fairly long one. take a look at the ARBA page. they have to be shown and win several "legs" to even be considered. Then you take the rabbits to a judge of your choice and pay a small fee for them to examine the rabbit. and then the tat. the right ear.
Then, you typically "breed" that rabbit, and sell the off spring, but never the Registered rabbit, that is your money maker. Once the rabbit has a registration number tattoo'ed in his right ear, any one can look up the numbers, and see the info. on that rabbit.
By being a member of ARBA, I am able to buy stamps and pedigree books, I am also able to fill out the pedigree's under penalty for lie's. But the pedigree is no more than a "linage" of that animal, It is up to you to turn the rabbit into a Grand champ.
Hope that helped some.
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on April 1, 2012 at 2:45 PM||comments (0)|
4-8 cups Herron Farms Organic Earthworm Castings
¼ cup sulfur free molasses
1 Tbsp water soluble sea plant extract-kelp or seaweed
2 Tbsp soluble fish powder or liquid fish emultion
4+ gallons Chlorine free water / rainwater
(Note: If you have chlorinated water, fill your pail and let it sit overnight uncovered, and the chlorine will evaporate. Alternatively, accelerate the process by putting the water in your brewer and turning the bubbler on. You will know the chlorine is gone when you cannot smell the chlorine anymore – probably in as short a time as 20-30 minutes. You can verify the absence of chlorine by purchasing a simple chlorine test kit from a local pool supplier.)
Tea Brewer components:
Min. 5 gallon plastic pail, bucket or barrel
Air pump with air stone or some other air dispersal device (remember: small bubbles are superior).
Sieve (a 5 gal. paint bucket filter works well)
Elastic band or a twist-tie to close the Sieve
First, ensure that all components are clean and there are no buildups or areas of your brewer that will prevent the circulation of air and water. (If the stone builds up residue just soak it overnight in pure white vinegar).
In a 5 gallon pail, fill with 4 gallons or so of warm water with the molasses, seaweed extract, and liquid fish. Turn on the pump with the hose and stone attached before placing the stone into the solution. Leave the pump running when removing the stone from the brew to keep water from entering the stone.
Place the air-stone or other bubbler at the bottom of the pail. For best results, ust the ‘open brew’ approach by placing the Barefoot Soil Organic Earthworm Castings directly into the water. (You can always strain the castings later if you are going to use a sprayer for the Teas’ application.) Alternatively, put the BFS Organic Earthworm Castings into the sieve and place it into the pail over the bubbler.
Brew until a noticeable frothy slime (“bio-slime” develops on the surface of the water and the smell of the ingredients is very weak or no longer present. The absence of noticeable fish and molasses odor indicates that the microorganisms have consumed the ingredients! Once the food is gone the populations will begin to decrease. On warm summer days, you can begin a brew in the evening, and the tea will be ready for application the next morning. We find brewing is complete in as little as 12 hours if the brew is kept warm. Hence, brew times are heavily dependent on the water temperature. With every 10 degree F drop in temperature, brew times increase by 12 hours.
Be sure to keep the tea aerobic by leaving the bubbler on until you use the tea since cutting off the oxygen supply will down spike the population and diversity.
While brewing, the population of beneficial microorganisms will be doubling in as little as every 20 minutes. By the end of the brew, your solution can contain over one billion little critters per teaspoon of tea!
Apply the tea when the populations of microorganisms are at their highest number and diversity. Spray the tea onto foliage, stems, roots and surrounding soil, or simply pour it onto you plants and vegetation. Remember, Castings Tea Everything! Spray early morning or in the evening or in the shade, not in the sunshine.
When you are finished, use the left over castings for your soil amendment needs. Do not discard them! These castings should have higher population densities than what you started with, because remember, you brewed an exceedingly large population, and they will adhere to the castings!
Herron Farms, Dawsonville 706-531-4789
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on January 8, 2012 at 8:20 AM||comments (0)|
Eudrilus Eugeniae-The African
as a kid, In the 70s. I raised redworms-under my rabbits. I had read about these "hybread, or African" red worms, and was led to beleave, they were hard to raise, would wander off, and they couldent survive the cold.
After many years of tring to get my redworms, to a larger size. I tried the african or so called hybread redworm. to find to my dissbeleaf, all I had read was not rue at all, and likely put into print and now the internet by Redworm farmers that did not want to loose there sales.
I now have so many Africans, my only concern, is how to keep them all fed. They are to me the easyest worm to raise, yes they "prefer" a warm temp. but produce and feed at the same temp as the common red worm.
When it gets real cold out side "all of your worms may die-----Redworms, Europeans, and Africans...
no worms do well at 20 or 30, or even 40 degrees, so what is the big deal?
Africans, out preform any other worm, in North America. and that is a fact-by someone that raise's Africans, Redworms and Europeans.
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on December 30, 2010 at 8:27 AM||comments (0)|
I have been out of a "real job" for over a year now, Thank"GOD" my wife is working, but makes just at the cut off for food stamps, so we dont even have that help.
After sending resume after resume for over a year, and only getting 2 hits, I got fed up and went fishing the other day. I do that to get my best thoughts, anyway, the thought came to me. I am not the only person in this mess, matter of fact, almost everyone I know has been hit hard, with the melt down.
Good people have lost homes, savings, Jobs and more. It is time to think like people did in the 40s,50s and even some of the 60s. People helped each other get though the hard times, trading eggs for milk, labor for wood, it wasn't all about money. course gas was a quarter and for a dollar you could get a coke, candy bar, and pack of smokes still having a dime for the phone.
What if, you could call some one you dont even know, and ask them to give you a hand?
We have got so consumed with money and "making a Living" we have lost track of the little things in life. Like the smile a widow gives you, when you lite her pilot light for less than a months rent.
or when you hang 5 mini blinds in the time it takes a single mom to make some coffee.
Or when you see the old man down the street getting wood, and offer to help.
Now, I cant refinish your basement for free(not saying I wont do it)but there are lots of very small jobs I dont mind helping people do, sometimes it just takes motivation, and a friend helps there also. And even though I say free, (that is what I mean) I figure most people asking for a hand will have to offer, whether it be coffee, cake, conversation.
A person knows what they can afford, and if they feel like they were treated right, and can afford it, they will offer me gas money or a tip. I dont ask, and dont expect it----------(unless) you have asked me to come bid on a job. That is different. but it will still be very cheap, I am in my 50tys, I dont need to compete with the Joneses.
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on December 9, 2010 at 1:57 PM||comments (0)|
The Dendrobaena Worm, full name Dendrobaena veneta (also known as the European night crawler & Eisenia hortensis), is a very tough and particularly wriggly worm, making them ideal as worms for fishing. They are surface feeders who are sensitive to light. The worms' eagerness to escape light is what makes them squirm so much in daylight. To ensure that you don't find your bucket of worms empty, you need to keep the lid on in the dark.
The Dendrobaena worm has the ability to consume large amounts of vegetable matter, up to half their body weight a day. A sexually mature Dendrobaena weighs anything from 1 to 2.5+ grams.
The temperature range at which the Dendrobaena thrives, that is breeds, is between 12 to 18 degrees Celsius. In warmer temperatures, their metabolism increases so they eat more food in warmer temperatures, up to 25 degrees Celsius. If the temperature raises too much above this they can get very stressed and will die at high temperatures. Therefore if you have a portable wormery it needs to be kept in the shade in the summer months and in the sun in the winter months, or even indoors. Moisture is very important as worms need it to breathe through their skin, although do not drown them. In ideal conditions, a single worm will produce approximately 2 young per week. Cocoons are laid which normally contain 1 worm taking anything from 40 to 128 days to hatch. Dendrobaenas take 57 to 86 days to reach sexual maturity.
Watch the worms wriggle:
You need not worry about any escapees as Dendrobaenas are indigenous to this country and are a friendly lot, posing no threat to any other earthworms.
Recently we have heard a lot of talk about the Tiger worm versus the Dendrobeana worm and their suitability for composting your kitchen scraps. To be fair we have decided to put together some facts about the Tiger worms so that you can make up your minds for yourselves.
Being Dendrobaena worm farmers we know how successful Dendrobaenas are and the hundreds of tonnes of food that they get through on our farm. Being livestock farmers we are also familiar with the Tiger worm which can be found in any partially composted dung/compost heap.
The Tiger worm to a certain degree is a myth, it obviously exists but is not a distinct breed as is commonly thought. The scientific name is Eisenia foetida, also known as Redworm, Red Wiggler, Brandlings or Manure Worm amongst other names. It was the distinct banding that developed when the worms were farmed in a single medium, paper pulp, that led them to be named tiger worms. On entering an environment different to that in which they are bred, they tend to go wandering due to the shock of the environmental change. We get these small wild worms entering our worm beds. For this reason we only use the outdoor beds for breeding composting worms. If worms are ordered for fishing we only use pure dendrobaenas bred indoors to prevent contamination by the smaller worms not appropriate for fishing. This infiltration of Redworms into our beds has enabled us to see the advantages of Dendrobaenas in wormery like conditions i.e. the larger Dendrobaenas aerate the beds better and prefer wetter conditions often found in wormeries.
Like the Dendrobaena, the Tiger worm is an Epigeic worm, i.e. they live on the surface of the soil or in the top 6 inches or so of the topsoil under the litter layer. Both are indigenous to this country. Both worms can tolerate temperatures from 3 to 27 degrees celsius. Our Dendrobeanas have survived snowfall and frosts on our outdoor beds without any insulation! Worms will burrow down to protect themselves. A single Tiger worm will produce approximately 2-4 young per week. Cocoons are laid which normally contain 2 worms taking anything from 32 to 73 days to hatch. Tigers take 53 to 76 days to reach sexual maturity. As a guide, in ideal conditions, you can expect to double the weight of your Tiger worm population in 3-4 months.
The Tiger is supposed to eat up to its own weight in food each day, its weight being from 0.5 to 1 gram. However we have found that Tiger worms eat no more, if not less, weight for weight than dendrobaenas.
We do not have a surplus of worms to shift, in fact we have to work extremely hard to meet demand. It would be far easier for us to supply less worms with our wormeries (and cheaper), but we continue to provide 1kg of worms as we know that this amount gives our customers the best chance of making their wormeries a success.
We have done our own trials in controlled conditions, feeding the same amount of food to two large trays of worms. One tray contained dendrobaena worms and the other contained an identical weight of tigers. At the end of the trail the tiger worms had bred more but the dendrobaenas had eaten more food and had produced a greater quantity and quality of wormcast i.e. the compost was broken down better and was much finer.
In summary, both Dendrobaenas and Tigers are effective composting worms. However we have found Dendrobaenas ideally suited to wormery conditions because they like wetter conditions, will tolerate slightly acidic conditions better and being larger and more robust they are more efficient at aerating the compost. This is handy as the natural composting process can cause your wormery to become acidic should you overfeed or forget to neutralise the PH of your wormery with eggshells or lime.
Tiger worms do breed faster than dendrobaenas.
In our experience of breeding the two types of worms in controlled conditions, Dendrobaenas digest waste quicker and more efficiently than tiger worms producing quality wormcast at a much faster rate.
© Bucket of Worms; Web Design by Julie
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on October 2, 2010 at 11:26 AM||comments (0)|
Until I save up enough money to have stock on hand, these items are drop shipped from Washington state.
No matter where you buy the worm factory, they are all drop shipped, and we as Distributors are bound by their rules to charge a set amount, we can charge more but not less than set amounts. I have all prices set at the min. amounts. So if you see the worm factory sold at a lower price, please call Natures Footprint at 360-592-4285 and report them. Also, Natures Footprint does not sell to the public, they only sell to Worm Wholesalers.
I am working on getting some stock on hand, to sell them locally, a bit cheaper. But remember We are worm farmers, not a retail store.
I have to charge what they charge me for shipping, or take a loss, and if I take too many loss's I wont be in Business very long.
Their basic charge for ups shipping is 22.00 so you need to add that to any order you place(it will automatically put it in in the check out)
If you order worms with one of the worm factories, I wont charge you extra shipping, although I will pay it.
I just wanted to put the shipping price up front, unlike so many others.
|Posted by Tim Herron Farms on August 31, 2010 at 5:00 AM||comments (0)|
Diatomaceous Earth - Organic pest control
Diatomaceous Earth is a natural, organic insect killer. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action and not by chemical so there is NO harm to pets or humans. The tiny hard and sharp diatoms scratch off the insects waxy coating, causing it to dehydrate.
Use Diatomaceous Earth for control of roaches, silverfish, ants, fire ants, bedbugs, lice, mites, spiders, earwigs, flies, fleas, box elder bugs, crabs(std), Pubic and hair Lice, scorpions, crickets, and many other insects. Diatomaceous Earth can be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc. Sprinkle a 2 inch wide border around the foundation of your house to prevent insects from entering.
Diatomaceous Earth will not harm earthworms or beneficial soil microorganisms.
A Word About BEDBUGS
All over the United States we are seeing an outbreak of bedbugs. DE will not only kill the bedbugs you have, but will do it safely without chemicals. Remember-bed bugs cannot fly, so make sure bed is away from the wall and there is no bedding touching the floor. Surround each of the 4 legs of the bed with DE--this will kill them as they try to get on the bed the only way possible. Dust some DE on the matress and bedding--especially in the creases. Dust DE in the carpets and in corners of room. Remove electrical outlet covers and puff some DE inside the walls. The "Pest Pistol" works great for this. Keep this routine up for several days untill no more bed bugs.
Pubic Lice(Crabs) and Hair Lice: Dust Diatomaceous Earth on all areas of the body that are infested with the Lice (Crabs). Dust your bedding and rooms you have been in with DE also.
For control of aphids, white fly, beetles, loopers, mites, snails, slugs, leaf hoppers, and others, use Diatomaceous Earth inside your home, greenhouse or outdoors on fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains and grass, up to and including day of harvest. For dry application of Diatomaceous Earth use a duster and cover entire plant, apply to both top and bottom of leaf. For young plants, as little as two pounds per acre may be adequate. For larger plants, five lbs. per acre is probably sufficient. Diatomaceous Earth will need reapplication after a rain. Applies best when there is dew or after a light rain. It is a long lasting, effective powder. The insects can not build up resistance. DE can be sprayed or whitewashed by mixing 1 cup DE with 1/2 Gallon of water. Stir frequently and spray/paint trees, yards, and fences. Diatomaceous Earth will not harm earthworms or beneficial soil microorganisms. Wear a dust mask when applying large amounts of it.
Just add 7-10 lbs. of Diatomaceous Earth to each ton of grain as it is conveyed into the storage. When added to grain, it not only makes it flow better, Diatomaceous Earth kills the bugs that are present and protects the grain from further invasions. Bugs can not become immune because they are killed by physical action, not chemical.
Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga.30534